Showing posts with label instructions. Show all posts
Showing posts with label instructions. Show all posts
Tuesday, April 27, 2021
Converting a Boss PH-2 Phaser Pedal to Eurorack + Audio Demo
Today, the title says it all what I am doing.
Link to Hexinverter step flashing video https://youtu.be/n-ugh8sbHw4
0:00 Introduction
0:50 Teardown
1:42 Planning
3:56 Notes on Assembly
4:24 Audio Demo
Labels:
Boss,
demo,
DIY,
euro,
eurorack,
explained,
fx,
how to,
instructions,
modular,
module,
pedal,
phaser,
Roland,
synthesizers,
Synths
Wednesday, October 4, 2017
Roland SH-01A Synthesizer EASY Tutorial
Did you know the SH-01A has SHUFFLE? How do you change an Arpeggio to 2 Octaves? What about changing the Sequencer note scaling to something other than 16th? Like triplets! Or making the LFO speed go into audio rates?! Say whaaaaaat? Everything you wanted to know about the SH-01A, and maybe a little bit more, all in under 30 minutes.
In my previous video I gave a review/overview on the SH-01A. Today in this video I will be giving a more in-depth tutorial. This is a great synth for beginners. And this video was made just for users with little to no knowledge of synthesizers. More experienced users may want to skip ahead to topics of interest.
0:00 Introduction
0:15 Connecting a MIDI Controller or No Controller?
0:57 Factory Reset
1:40 LFO Modulation
2:14 VCO - The Sound Source
4:04 Changing the Noise Type - A Sneak Peak at the System Settings
4:51 The Filter - A Control for Brightness
6:05 VCA and Envelope - Loudness Control Over Time
7:34 Trigger Types
8:34 Ribbon Controllers
9:06 Portamento
9:34 Transpose Switch and Tune Knob
10:00 A Quick Note About the CV/GATE Out and External Clock Jacks
10:41 Saving A Patch (MENU, "1")
11:38 What In the World Is Manual Recall?
12:19 Sequencer, Setting the Note Scale, Programming Notes
13:50 Shuffle!
14:16 Saving and Recalling a Sequence Pattern (MENU, "2")
15:08 Arpeggio, Hold, Key Transpose, Setting 1 or 2 Octaves
16:12 Assignment Modes: Mono, Unison, Poly, Chord (MENU, "3")
16:51 Editing Chords In Chord Mode
System Settings (MENU, "4") use VALUE knob to scroll parameters
Press "1" to edit/exit a parameter
17:54 System - LFO Types, Tuning, MIDI Channel
19:51 System - Sync, Key Velocity, CC Output Mode
21:51 System - A Note About CV Out Settings
22:29 System - Auto-Off, LED Demo
23:19 System - Ribbon Control Scales
24:05 System - Mod Ribbon Hold
24:40 How To BACKUP Patch and Pattern Data To Computer
25:38 How To RESTORE Patch and Pattern Data To Computer
Labels:
ARP,
Arturia,
backup,
easy,
explained,
getting started,
how to,
instructions,
Korg,
MIDI,
Moog,
Oberheim,
programming,
restore,
Roland,
SH-01A,
SH-101,
synth,
synthesizer,
tutorial
Monday, July 10, 2017
Korg MS-20 Teardown: Pulse Width Modulation Install
The vintage Korg MS-20 monophonic synthesizer comes with a pulse width knob, but no way to patch a modulation to it. In this video I teardown the MS-20, and install a Pulse Width Modulation routing.
My PWM will come from the MG/T.Ext circuit that is already present on the synth. 90% of the time I want to use the MG, AKA the LFO, to modulate the Pulse Width. So all I will do is add a small pot and current limiting resistor for routing the MG/Total circuit to the Pulse Width.
What about the other 10% of the time I don't want MG going to PWM? Well the MG is only normalled to the Total/External jack. If something is patched into the Total jack, it will override the MG and be routed to the new PWM pot. It behaves exactly the same way as the MG/Total pots for Pitch/HPF/LPF. Pretty sweet.
At the end of the video I patch various things to modulate the Pulse Width. Stay safe, don't electrocute yourself, and be sure to unplug the synth at all times while doing work inside the unit.
Labels:
bass,
DIY,
electronics,
how to,
install,
instructions,
keyboard,
Korg,
mod,
modification,
monosynth,
MS-20,
pulse width,
PWM,
synth,
synthesizer,
teardown,
vintage
Saturday, October 8, 2016
Arturia Beatstep Pro Sequencer USB Port Jack Easy DIY Repair
Any system is only as strong as its weakest link.
Enter the Arturia Beatstep Pro Sequencer, tons of user reviews boast solid construction seemingly built like a tank. On the first few uses I would be inclined to agree. However after about a dozen uses the USB port jack on mine has become intermittent. Symptoms include sudden power blackouts and reboots, even when not touching the USB cord. You don't have to play out live to a crowd to know, this is no bueno. I am careful and take care of my gear. I am especially careful with the USB port and its cord, however I run a bunch of other connections back there and the wires usually hang up with the USB cord. Why is this happening?
One condition could be contact fatigue. If you plug/remove the USB cord a lot, the little contacts could become worn away. You will frequently see this in older cell phones. But more likely as in my scenario, the lead-free solder on the USB ground pins disintegrated resulting in a faulty solder joint at the circuit board. It would be too easy to blame the RoHS standard for requiring lead-free solder, which is structurally deficient for such a use. But if I worked in a factory around solder all day long, lead-free is the way to be. What can be done about it?
If the item is still under warranty you could send it to the company and they can fix or repair the item. There may be a repair charge if the company deems the issue to be caused by negligence. And who's to say? Even if there is no charge, you could get your sequencer back and have the same thing happen again. I'm only mentioning all of this because if you choose to repair the USB port yourself, it WILL void your warranty. Also, if you're not careful and touch something electronically sensitive, you may accidentally damage something else. I'm not liable for anything you do, so be careful not to shock yourself. If you're not confident in doing these things, there's no shame in getting an electronics friend or service tech to help. You have been warned. Now let's fix this thing already.
1. Flip the sequencer over and remove all the black screws. Remove the metal back plate. This will expose the circuit board. Remove all the little screws holding the circuit board in place.
2. In this orientation, pull the circuit board away from you to dislodge the minijacks from the case. Then lift the edge closest to you up and away. If this isn't happening, check you have removed ALL the little screws, it may be easy to miss 1 or 2.
3. Flip the circuit board over and note the location of the USB jack near the power switch.
4. Using regular rosin core solder (I use 60/40 from Radio Shack), make new solder joints on the two GROUND pin locations at the locations shown by red arrows. Make sure the pins get soldered nicely to the circuit board contact pins here. I needed a magnifier to see the work area.
5. Put the circuit board back in and secure it to the case with the screws. This is the time to plug in and test it, making sure you DO NOT touch any of the electronic components inside while you do so. At this point you will be able to wiggle the USB cord lightly and make sure it does not blink the power. If so, you'll need to do it over. Or there may be something else going on. Hopefully this has been helpful, this is what I did to restore mine to working order. If everything is good, you can go ahead and put everything back together.
Enter the Arturia Beatstep Pro Sequencer, tons of user reviews boast solid construction seemingly built like a tank. On the first few uses I would be inclined to agree. However after about a dozen uses the USB port jack on mine has become intermittent. Symptoms include sudden power blackouts and reboots, even when not touching the USB cord. You don't have to play out live to a crowd to know, this is no bueno. I am careful and take care of my gear. I am especially careful with the USB port and its cord, however I run a bunch of other connections back there and the wires usually hang up with the USB cord. Why is this happening?
One condition could be contact fatigue. If you plug/remove the USB cord a lot, the little contacts could become worn away. You will frequently see this in older cell phones. But more likely as in my scenario, the lead-free solder on the USB ground pins disintegrated resulting in a faulty solder joint at the circuit board. It would be too easy to blame the RoHS standard for requiring lead-free solder, which is structurally deficient for such a use. But if I worked in a factory around solder all day long, lead-free is the way to be. What can be done about it?
If the item is still under warranty you could send it to the company and they can fix or repair the item. There may be a repair charge if the company deems the issue to be caused by negligence. And who's to say? Even if there is no charge, you could get your sequencer back and have the same thing happen again. I'm only mentioning all of this because if you choose to repair the USB port yourself, it WILL void your warranty. Also, if you're not careful and touch something electronically sensitive, you may accidentally damage something else. I'm not liable for anything you do, so be careful not to shock yourself. If you're not confident in doing these things, there's no shame in getting an electronics friend or service tech to help. You have been warned. Now let's fix this thing already.
1. Flip the sequencer over and remove all the black screws. Remove the metal back plate. This will expose the circuit board. Remove all the little screws holding the circuit board in place.
2. In this orientation, pull the circuit board away from you to dislodge the minijacks from the case. Then lift the edge closest to you up and away. If this isn't happening, check you have removed ALL the little screws, it may be easy to miss 1 or 2.
3. Flip the circuit board over and note the location of the USB jack near the power switch.
4. Using regular rosin core solder (I use 60/40 from Radio Shack), make new solder joints on the two GROUND pin locations at the locations shown by red arrows. Make sure the pins get soldered nicely to the circuit board contact pins here. I needed a magnifier to see the work area.
5. Put the circuit board back in and secure it to the case with the screws. This is the time to plug in and test it, making sure you DO NOT touch any of the electronic components inside while you do so. At this point you will be able to wiggle the USB cord lightly and make sure it does not blink the power. If so, you'll need to do it over. Or there may be something else going on. Hopefully this has been helpful, this is what I did to restore mine to working order. If everything is good, you can go ahead and put everything back together.
Labels:
Arturia,
Beatstep Pro,
broken,
disassembly,
DIY,
fix,
help,
how to,
instructions,
issue,
jack,
plug,
port,
problem,
repair,
Sequencer,
soldering,
teardown,
troubleshooting,
USB
Thursday, September 29, 2016
Oberheim Matrix-12 Programming Tips + Tricks [#2 Kick Drum]
Quick how-to video making an electronic kick drum on the Oberheim Matrix-12 Synthesizer. You can use any programmable synthesizer that has filter self-oscillation, usually but not limited to a 4-pole (24 db/oct) filter slope. A couple of the tricks I employ here may surprise you, and can be used on other kinds of synth sounds. Be sure to stay for the end of the video, where I fatten my kick drum sound through a vintage audio compressor.
Tuesday, September 27, 2016
Oberheim Matrix-12 Programming Tips + Tricks [FM]
FM Synthesis is not just for DX7 and Yamaha synths. The Oberheim Matrix-12 can do primitive FM as well, albeit a single carrier and modulator pair. Here are some tips and tricks for exploring the FM possibilities. Some of the ideas come from my Getting Started Programming FM video, so you may want to check that out too.
Labels:
Analog,
demo,
digital,
DX7,
FM,
how to,
instructions,
keyboard,
Matrix-12,
Oberheim,
patches,
programming,
secrets,
sound design,
tips,
tricks,
Xpander,
Yamaha
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